Our menu is short on purpose, and it changes more often than we plan it to. The market decides most of it — we write down whatever looked best that morning and cook it before it fades.
Right now the tables are full of the things that only show up for a few weeks: blackened tenderstem, the first sweet tomatoes, herbs that still smell of the garden. We char them hard, dress them simply, and then get out of the way.
Good cooking, like good writing, is mostly about restraint. When the produce is this good there is very little left to do. Leave a few things off the plate and the ones that remain have room to speak — we would rather do five things well than fifteen things loudly.
What’s Worth Ordering This Week
If you are coming in over the next few days, these are the plates the kitchen is proudest of — the ones built around whatever arrived that morning.
- The roast roots board. Heritage carrots and new potatoes charred hard, dressed with arugula, lemon and a little chilli. Made for the middle of the table.
- The day’s risotto. Whatever grain and vegetable are at their peak, finished with hard cheese and a cold glass alongside.
- The market plate. A small, changing plate of three things we could not stop eating in the kitchen. Ask your server what is on it tonight.
There is a quiet rhythm to a kitchen that cooks this way. Each week the market sets the menu, and the menu sets the pace of the room — which is exactly how we like it.
Dining is and always was a great artistic opportunity. Study and love nature, it will never fail you.”
– Frank Lloyd Wright, 1959
By the time you read this the menu will probably have moved on again. That is the point. Come hungry, ask what is good, and let the season do most of the cooking.
